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Tales of Patagonia: Volume 1, Malleo Monster

By Matt Klara
(Submitted by West Yellowstone Fly Shop)
The Fish of A Lifetime
(click image for detail)

By:  Matt Klara

May 8, 2004 – Today was my official graduation day from Montana State University, Bozeman.  Masters Degree in Civil Engineering.  On top of learning a great deal and meeting some wonderful people, getting the degree afforded me a chance to avoid the “real world” for two more years and get in another 200+ days fishing on the rivers of SW Montana.  Today was a celebration of my accomplishment, and I gladly traded the pomp and circumstance of a commencement ceremony for a chance to visit northern Patagonia with some of my best friends in the entire world.

We left Justin’s house in Junin De Los Andes around 10 am, and made stops for facturas (pastries), lunch food, and to pick up our friend Jeff at the Hosteria Chimehuin on the way out of town.  A short drive brought us to the famed Rio Malleo.  

I contemplated the arid landscape as we bounced along the dirt road that parallels the lower river. Massive Andean condors soared overhead between the towering rock spires and crags where they roost.  The Malleo Valley is a spectacular place, with hints of Gallatin, Madison, Grande Ronde, and Deschutes all in one, and we were the only anglers on the lower river today.  Justin, Rachel, and Travis love the Malleo for the fantastic dry fly fishing and its bright and healthy trout.  I found it very pleasant, easy to wade, and crossable in many locations.  The lower river is a series of perfect riffles, runs, and pools that were easy to approach and fish.  We fished to some nice trout as they rose to small mayflies near the confluence with the Rio Alumine until a bit of wind put the hatch off. Eager for more fish I quickly switched to nymphs.  A size 14 Copper John was working really well, and I hooked 6 or 8 rainbows to 16 inches; typical fish for the Malleo. 

I was moving quickly upriver, enjoying the gorgeous fall day when I came upon a long, deep run. I tried for a bit with my nymphs but eventually switched to a sink tip line and a brown and olive bugger that I had tied with lead eyes for good measure.  About ¼ of the way down the run a grand willow overhangs the water.  Below that the river runs smooth and deep to the tailout, another 30 yards downstream.  Fishing downstream from the willow I felt a strong take and a second later the surface erupted in a massive brown and gold swirl.  After that the fish laid low and then ran downstream, stopping in the shallows of the tailout.  I put a deep bend in my 6 weight, hoping to move the fish back upstream, but the fish would not budge. I tried yelling for Jeff but he was long gone and my shouts were muffled by the breeze and the sounds of the rushing river.  I took a deep breath and settled into the fight, pulling as hard as I could, whenever I could, and giving line when the fish ran.  When I got my first glimpse of the fish through the crystal clear water I got even more excited and plenty scared.  It was HUGE!  I got an even better look when the fish punctuated a short run with a massive leap.  I bowed instinctively, and gasped.  I was fighting the biggest brown trout I’d ever seen.  Another jump, but the hook held and I could tell the fish was tiring.  Finally, after about 10 minutes – it seemed like a year – I was able to guide the fish into the shallows and grab its powerful tail.  Before me laid the biggest, most beautiful trout I’d ever seen.  I took a couple of photos and with trembling hands I unrolled my tape measure - 29 ½ inches.  I guessed 10 pounds.  I quietly released the fish, secretly wishing that someone had been there to see it.  I later learned that our local guide friends had not heard of a trout that big being landed on the Malleo in over a decade.  This was my fish of a lifetime.  After the magnificent fish swam from my fingers I grabbed my head in disbelief, looked down at the water, up at the sky, and back down at my still trembling hands before packing up and heading off to find my friends.

I told my story again as we drove back out on the dirt road.  Rounding a sharp bend we were taken aback by a most incredible sight.  Volcano Lanin, the icon of the Malleo Valley, stood before us, the sky behind it glowing red purple, pink, and orange with the most vibrant sunset I’d ever seen.  As the last light faded I though to myself… This is why I came all this way.  This is why Patagonia is so special.  Anything can happen here!

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